|
Several Chinese snacks have
been known in English as "dumplings". Of these, jiaozi
id taken by the northern Chinese as a symbol of
festivity and served as the main dish for the Spring
Festival of traditional New Year's Day.
The annals of a northern county have this record from
the early Qing Dynasty:" On New Year's Day the family
share a sumptuous dinner at which various types of
dumplings are served. They are called jiaoxi because
they are eaten at a time when the New Year is ushered in
and the old sent off." In the vast areas of North China,
especially in the countryside, Jiaozi is not only eaten
at the New Year but served on ordinary days when there
are guests for dinner. In provincial towns and market
villages, many eating-places specialize in this dish.
Jiaozi dumplings are made of a paste wrapper with
seasoned mincemeat as the filling. They are usually in
the shape of a crescent moon. Cooked in boiling water
for a few minutes, they become " boiled dumpling" and
are ready to serve. If steamed under cover, they are
called "steamed dumplings".
A great range of food may be used as the principal
material for jiaozi fill: minced pork, mutton or beef,
minced prawn of shrimp, vegetables and dried mushrooms.
The usual seasonings are soya sauce, salt, sugar, minced
scallion and ginger root, peanut and sesame oils.
Dumplings are particularly tasty because in the process
of boiling or steaming the steam generated inside the
wrapper does not escape, keeping the flavor inside and
the fillings tender.
From a Tang Dynasty (618-907A.D.) tomb excavated in 1968
in Xinjiang, a wooden bowl was unearthed, containing a
number of dumplings that look exactly the same as
today's jiaozi. This testifies that dumplings had been
introduced to the northwestern region of ethnic
minorities by the Tang Dynasty at the latest.
Dumplings 2 (Huntun)
Another type of Chinese dumplings is called huntun. It
is made in a similar way as jiaozi, but the wrapper is
thinner and contains less filling, folded in such a way
that it leaves a loose flap.
Huntun is always boiled and served about a dozen in a
bowl of instant soup seasoned by sesame oil, soya sauce,
a pinch of shredded parsley or some other dried
vegetable.
Huntun is popular not only in the north but also in many
southern parts of China. It was customary in old Beijing
for people to eat huntun at the winter solstice.
The origin of huntun has remained obscure. A Song
Dynasty (960-1279) work suggested: " It is called huntun
because it was first made by the Hun and Tun clans of
the northern parts outside of the Great Wall." There
are, however, others who would not endorse this opinion.
Dumplings (3) (Yuanxiao)
Yuanxiao is a special dumpling in China for the Lantern
Festival (the 15th night of the 1st lunar month). It is
a "ball" made of glutinous rice flour.
Yuanxiao, it is said, made its debut in the Eastern Jin
Dynasty (317-420A.D.) and became popular during the Tang
and Song periods (7th to 13th century), but not under
its present name. The Notes of the Year in Hubi, a book
by a 10th century scholar, mentioned "bean-paste-filled
cakes" which were made on the 15th day of the 1st lunar
month and, in an other context, "floating cakes in thin
gruel prepared at the middle of the first moon."
As the 15th night of the New Year was later called "Shangyuan"
and the "Yuanxiao" festival, so the dumplings came to be
known by the name of the festival.
Yuanxiao dumplings fall into two categories.
One is those without fillings inside. A suitable amount
of water is mixed into glutinous rice flour to make
dough, which is then shaped by hand into small "solid
balls." The balls or dumplings are boiled in sweetened
water and, when cooked, are served in bowls. They can
also be boiled in plain water and then sprinkled with
sugar in the serving bowl. A third way of preparation is
to calk them with dried longan pulp, candied dates or
jujubes and similar ingredients to make a kind of
porridge of assorted balls. Sweetened with sugar and
osmanthus flowers, it makes and excellent dessert.
Another category of dumplings is those that have
fillings inside, which may be either sweet or salty in
taste. For the sweet variety, the filling may be sugar,
walnut meat, osmanthus flowers, rose petals, sweetened
tangerine peel, bean or jujube paste, used alone or in
combination. The salty variety can be filled with
mincemeat, certain vegetables or a mixture of both. In
either case, the materials are minced and well mixed
with flavorsome seasonings.
The way to make stuffed dumplings also varies between
the north and the south. The usual method followed in
southern provinces is to shape the dough of rice flour
into balls, make a hole in each and insert the filling
inside, close the hole and smooth out the surface by
rolling the ball between the hands. In the north, where
sweet and non-meat stuffing is normally used, people
pressed the fillings into hardened cores, dip them
slightly in water and roll them in a flat basket
containing dry glutinous rice flour. A layer of the
flour will be stuck on the fillings, which are dipped
again in water and rolled again in the rice flour. And
so it goes on snowballing until the dumplings grow to
the desired size.
Yuanxiao dumplings must be boiled in the right way.
First bring a pot of water to a boil on strong fire.
Drop in the dumplings gently and, when they float up on
the water a few minutes later, keep them in the pot for
a few more minutes to make the inside well cooked. But
at this stage, the fire must be reduced; for dumplings
boiled in rolling water may burst open. To make sure
that this does not happen, some cold water may be added
little by little into the pot to keep the water
simmering instead of boiling
|